DIY Whimsical Pajama Set: A Guide to French Seams and Bias Cutting
Before we jump in, a quick tip on fabric: while I used cotton for this set, if you want something with more “swing,” I highly recommend a viscose or cotton voile. These fabrics have a much softer drape. Also, learn from my mistake—for the top, make sure to cut your fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle) to get those soft, flowing curves!
To help you follow along, I’ve created a free downloadable workbook with all the diagrams from this video. You can find the link in the description box below!
For my
Visual Learners
I am so incredibly excited to show you how I made my very first sweater! If you love seeing things in action as much as I do, you can watch the whole video and my full explanation right here. Just hit play and let’s get started!
Tools & Materials
Phase 1: The Shorts
Because cheesecloth is so textured and “shifty,” I had to change up my usual process.
Here are a few things I did differently for this build:
Measurements: You’ll need your waist, the widest part of your hip, and your crotch length (measure from waist to seat while sitting down).
The Formula: For the front, create a rectangle using your hip circumference divided by 4, plus 5cm of ease.
The Curve: Extend the crotch line by (Hip:16)-2cm for the front and (Hip:16)+2cm for the back
Adding Pockets & French Seams: French seams are wonderful because they encase all raw edges. For the pockets, I attached them to the front and back panels with the wrong sides together first. It gets a little tricky at the side seams, so take your time to ensure the pocket opening remains clean and the edges are fully enclosed.
The Waistband: I used a simple elasticated waistband. I wrapped the elastic around my waist to find the perfect tension, zigzagged the ends together, and then encased it within the fabric waistband.
Phase 2: The Flowy Layered Top
Measure your bust, desired length, and “strap to strap” distance across your chest.
Creating Flare: To get that signature A-line shape, I extended the bottom line by 10cm and curved the side seams upward by 5cm. This prevents the sides from sagging awkwardly.
Layering: Stitch the front and back of each layer separately, then pin them together at the armholes.
The Neckline: Add a gathering stitch to the front neckline to match your strap-to-strap measurement.
Bias Tape Straps: Use one continuous piece of bias tape to finish the armhole and extend into the shoulder straps. I finished the look with a delicate lace trim from Turkey!
And Voila!
A cute PAJAMA set was made!
I am so in love with how this set turned out—especially the lace details and the open back. It feels unique, comfortable, and a little bit magical.
Would you like me to walk you through a more detailed tutorial on how to sew French seams around pockets? It can be a bit of a brain-teaser the first time!
Great recipe!